This is not a fishing story, but a story about a bridge that is synonymous with a famous fishing place, the Esopus Creek. The Five Arches bridge, which links NYS Route 28 with Route 28A, has been a fixture since 1913, during the very period the Ashokan Reservoir was under construction. The reservoir was completed in 1915. 

Route 28 follows the reservoir along the east side through the towns of Hurley and Woodstock. Route 28A, runs along the west side of the reservoir, through the towns of Hurley and Olive.

Any angler who fishes the eastern Catskills sooner or later will take his or her craft to the Esopus Creek. Natural flow in the Esopus   was augmented by diversions from the Schoharie Reservoir via the Shandaken tunnel, once that system became fully operational in 1927. As a result, flow in the Esopus improved dramatically. That’s when the Esopus became famous for its spring runs of good-size rainbow trout, migrating from the Ashokan Reservoir. 

As a result, anglers came from near and far to take advantage of this excellent seasonal fishery. Rainbows were first planted in the Esopus system in 1883. That fishery is now maintained through the natural reproduction of resident wild fish. 

Over the years, the Esopus was fished by any number of famous anglers, among them Lee Wulff, Dan Bailey and Al McClane. The most noteworthy local personality was Ray Smith, who was highly regarded as a local fly tier, and a sometimes guide. Legend has it that one of his clients was Babe Ruth. His snelled wet flies were sold through the Folkerts’ store in Phoenicia, NY. These days Smith flies are highly sought by collectors of Catskill fly-fishing memorabilia. 

When anglers travel along Route 28 West, from the Kingston area, and head down the long hill toward Boiceville, the first structure that will appear on the left is the Five Arches Bridge. The bridge is a massive structure, extending 454 feet over Esopus Creek. It is about a mile upstream from the upper basin of the Ashokan Reservoir. 

When we were lads, just beginning to spread our wings as trout fishermen, the first really large, famous river we were fortunate enough to fish was the Esopus. At that time, a trip to the Catskills and the Esopus was a long, arduous journey, beginning in Ossining, NY. It involved a drive to Poughkeepsie along Route 9, where we crossed the Hudson at the Mid-Hudson Bridge. It continued along Route 9W north to Kingston. After traversing the City of Kingston, it was on to Route 28 and the Esopus Valley. My friend’s father drove us, in what turned out to be about two or three hours of travel.

I’ll never forget our first trip to the Esopus. It was a warm, rainy morning in May; the flowers were in bloom. Since we were new to the Esopus Valley, our first stop was behind the Boiceville Market, where we found ample parking; the river was a short walk away. 

Seeing a river the size of the Esopus for the first time was an overwhelming experience for us. We were used to fishing the small streams that flowed into the New York City, and DEP reservoirs in Westchester and Putnam counties. And here we were at the Esopus, with probably 20 times the flow!

Access to the Esopus, behind the Boiceville market, is straightforward. The wading is not. Before entering the river, I could see right off that hip boots would be of little use. I also learned very quickly that the river stones in the Esopus are very slick. That is a function of the red clay found throughout the Esopus/Schoharie watershed. And I cannot tell you how many times I fell in, over the many years I fished that river.

Immediately after entering the river, slipping and sliding, I looked downriver and saw the Five Arches Bridge, about 200 feet downstream. It was and remains an impressive structure. A true landmark of historical significance. 

Sadly, the DEP has determined that the Five Arches Bridge needs to be replaced. I’m not sure why, but speculate that engineers have determined that from a safety standpoint, the bridge has reached the end of its structural life. 

Some work has already begun, as shown in the photo accompanying this piece. From the DEP press releases, the existing span will remain in place to accommodate local traffic, until the new structure is complete. The project will include a half mile of road, along with another smaller bridge. Construction is scheduled for completion in 2025. 

In the last 10 years or so, the state has replaced two bridges along Route 28, over the Esopus or its tributaries: one in Mount Tremper, and the other further upriver. From an engineering standpoint, both are functional, and designed with the safety of the traveling public in mind. Unfortunately, neither of the structures has any character, which is a sign of the times, and engineering design and need. 

I’m guessing that the new bridge, the bridge that will replace the Five Arches Bridge, will be designed and constructed in the same manner. As a result, another Catskill landmark, a legend in the Esopus Valley, will be gone. I know I’ll miss that bridge each time I drive by the area, and recall the first time I fished the Esopus, on that rainy May morning all those many years ago.