The aftermath

Posted 8/21/12

In the wake of all that feasting, it’s hard to believe stomachs will growl once again. But a new day dawns and here come the barbarian hordes, clamoring for their lunch. Leftover turkey? Bring it …

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The aftermath

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In the wake of all that feasting, it’s hard to believe stomachs will growl once again. But a new day dawns and here come the barbarian hordes, clamoring for their lunch. Leftover turkey? Bring it on! Many people actually prefer that mile-high sandwich (loaded with cranberry sauce and even a layer of stuffing) to the original Thanksgiving line-up. With any luck, no fit of weary pique caused you to discard the carcass of that big bird. There’s gold in there! A pot of turkey soup with wild rice and kale on Friday makes an ideal counterpoint to the orgy of carbs on Thursday. And therein lies the secret to successful post-holiday eating—because who wants to follow a big, heavy meal with more of the same?

Not I. Which is why my favorite dishes incorporating leftovers usually veer away from hearty American fare in the direction of something a bit more exotic, enlivened with tangy flavors and bright spices. That turkey sandwich, for instance? While my husband’s family is busy frying up bacon for their beloved BLTs—the T stands for turkey now that summer tomatoes are a blissful memory—I am composing my riff on the Vietnamese banh mi, a baguette stuffed with sliced turkey, cilantro, mint, pickled carrots and hot sauce. Or I might just make use of those Brussels sprouts that someone forgot to cook, tossing paper-thin slices with bits of red onion, toasted walnuts, plenty of finely grated Parmesan and a piquant dressing of mustard, honey, lemon juice and olive oil for a delicious raw salad. I’ve been known to transform leftover sweet potato casserole, marshmallows and all, with a generous drizzle of butter in which I’ve warmed garam masala. It’s also a cinch to mix cold mashed potatoes with tons of chopped fresh parsley or cooked greens, shape this into patties and then fry up sizzling golden potato cakes. Served with a dollop of horseradish cream and another of cranberry sauce, these are great for breakfast, lunch or supper. Make them bite-sized and freeze them, then bring them out in December as elegant hors d’oeuvres topped with smoked salmon or caviar.

Meanwhile, that turkey carcass is simmering away on the stove with winter vegetables and aromatics—leeks, carrots, bay leaves, black pepper. The resulting stock is the basis for all kinds of fortifying soups. My favorites hail from afar, like Vietnamese phở, fragrant with ginger and coriander and brimming with fresh green herbs, crisp bean sprouts and translucent rice noodles; or pozole, the Mexican stew of hominy (dried corn) finished with red chili sauce and crunchy radishes; or Chinese congee, which is simply rice cooked down to a comforting mush and garnished with the toppings of your choice, from chopped scallions to roasted sesame oil. Each of these is a perfect vehicle for rendering shredded leftover turkey moist, tender and newly intriguing.

If you still have turkey left and are up for a bit of a project (and what better way to occupy all those bored guests?), consider making a batch of tamales. Sauté chopped turkey with whatever vegetables you have on hand. Green beans, potatoes, celery, fennel—they all work. Stir in a little mild cheese, and then envelop this mixture in small rectangles of soft cornmeal dough made with Mexican masa harina. These are wrapped in soaked corn husks, tied into little bundles and steamed. It’s much easier than it sounds and so worth trying one of the many recipes you can find online. (Order ingredients at www.mexgrocer.com.) For an equally rewarding but much less time-consuming foray south of the border, make tostadas. Bake corn tortillas until they are quite crisp, then top them with a tangle of chopped leftover turkey cooked with onion, jalapeño and spices. Layers of flavor and texture follow: hot sauce, shredded cabbage, avocado, cilantro, lime and sour cream. It’s about as far away from Thanksgiving as you can get and for this you’ll be truly grateful.

Turkey Pozole

Serves 6

2 1/2 cups pozole (dried hominy)

2 medium yellow onions; one peeled and quartered, the other peeled and finely diced

4 cloves garlic, 2 smashed, 2 minced

6 cups turkey stock

1 teaspoon dried Mexican oregano (or 1/2 teaspoon thyme and 1/2 teaspoon oregano)

3 cups cooked turkey meat in chunks, skin removed

Sea salt

2 dried New Mexico chilies

1 cup thinly sliced radishes

1/2 cup cilantro leaves

Lime wedges for serving

Cover the pozole kernels with plenty of water and soak overnight.

Drain the pozole and place in a large pot with the quartered onion and enough water to generously cover. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook, partially covered until tender, about an hour or more, depending on size and age. Drain, reserving the liquid.

Return the pozole to the pot along with the diced onion, smashed garlic, turkey stock and oregano. The kernels should be covered, so add some of the reserved pozole liquid if needed. Simmer gently to bloom kernels and meld flavors, about 40 minutes. Add turkey during the last 20 minutes. Taste and season with salt.

Meanwhile, stem and seed the chilies and toast them for less than a minute on each side in a hot skillet. Place in a small bowl and cover with hot water for 20 minutes.

Remove softened chilies from soaking liquid and place in a food processor along with diced garlic, 3/4 cup of soaking liquid and ½ teaspoon salt. Puree into a thick sauce, adding more liquid as needed. Stir 1/4 cup of chili sauce into the soup. Season to taste with more salt and chili sauce.

To serve, ladle pozole into bowls and top with sliced radishes and cilantro leaves. Pass additional chili sauce and wedges of lime at the table.

Turkey Tostadas

Serves 4

8 corn tortillas

1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1 jalapeño, seeded and minced

3-4 cups diced leftover turkey

1/3 cup turkey stock

2 cups finely shredded cabbage

1 cup diced avocado

2 limes, quartered

6 Tablespoons roughly chopped cilantro leaves,

8 Tablespoons Mexican crema, or sour cream, thinned with a little milk or water

Hot sauce

Preheat the oven to 400ºF. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.

Place tortillas in a single layer on the baking sheets and lightly brush them on top with a little vegetable oil. Bake in the oven until they are crisp and golden, about 15 minutes, rotating the sheets half-way through.

Over medium-high heat, warm a tablespoon of vegetable oil in a large skillet. Add onion, spices and jalapeño, and cook, stirring frequently, until golden. Add turkey and stock, and sauté until turkey is hot and liquid mostly evaporated. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Divide the turkey between the crisp tortillas, then top each with a spoonful of hot sauce, a mound of cabbage, some avocado, a squeeze of lime, a sprinkle of cilantro leaves and a drizzle of sour cream. Serve with a wedge of lime and pass hot sauce on the side.

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