On ramps

Posted 8/21/12

The growing interest in eating local has earned wild edibles a well deserved new popularity. Few foods better represent terroir, that characteristic flavor of the region, than something plucked …

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On ramps

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The growing interest in eating local has earned wild edibles a well deserved new popularity. Few foods better represent terroir, that characteristic flavor of the region, than something plucked directly from the forests and fields. This goes a long way to explain the near hysteria that erupts every year when ramps emerge from the earth. Suddenly, no foodie’s Instagram feed is complete without several shots of these highly seasonal native plants. As noted in Molly Marquand’s article printed in the April 14 issue of TRR, unbridled enthusiasm for ramps has led us to the point where ramps are being over-harvested and environmentalists report that their populations are greatly compromised. As a solution, some recommend that the bulbs be left behind and only the greens harvested, or limiting the harvest to no more than 10% per year.

Allium tricoccum, also known as wild leek and wood onion, has a much more intense flavor than leek or onion, something more akin to garlic with a hint of wild funk. In their raw state, ramps are extremely pungent; cooking mellows them considerably. The bulbs are excellent pickled in a sweet-spicy brine—and make an ideal garnish for a martini—but the good news is that the greens are arguably even more versatile and delicious. They combine beautifully with cheese and cream and are an irresistible addition to everything from scrambled eggs to cornbread to mashed potatoes. They can also be blanched, pureed and made into a soup or mixed with butter, a pat of which is superb on grilled steak or spread on toast. One of the best ways to showcase ramp greens is also the easiest: toss them into a hot cast-iron skillet slicked with butter or bacon fat and watch them puff up, shrink and lightly char. Eaten as is, with just a sprinkling of salt, they are simply delightful.

The texture of the leaves is another asset. When raw they are vividly green and quite succulent; cooked, they darken and become wonderfully silky. This is showcased in a typical Japanese preparation, often used for spinach, which calls for poaching the leaves in a lightly flavored broth. Excess water is squeezed out, then the ramp greens are pressed into a bowl and dressed with sweet rice wine and soy sauce. Served chilled, with a small drizzle of sesame oil, they virtually melt in the mouth.

Ramps are ephemeral; by June the leaves are dried and yellowing. But a great way to preserve them is with salt. I use my dehydrator to dry out the leaves, then pulverize them in the food process before combining with an equal portion of sea salt. Blitzed in the spice grinder, this emerges as a fine emerald green powder that keeps for months in a tightly sealed jar. Although it’s delicious on roast chicken, in celery root soup, or a Bloody Mary, my favorite way to eat it is on buttered popcorn. That uniquely savory flavor just drives me wild.

Ramp Salt

Makes about 2/3 cup

About a dozen ramp leaves

1/3 cup flaky sea salt or fleur de sel

Using a dehydrator or an oven on its lowest setting, fully dehydrate the ramp leaves. Once dry, pulverize them in a food processor. Measure and set aside.

Measure out an equal quantity of sea salt and combine with the ramp powder. Transfer to a spice grinder and blitz into a fine powder. Store in an airtight glass jar.


Pickled Ramps

About 1 quart

2 pounds ramps

1/2 cup organic cider vinegar


1/2 cup organic red wine vinegar

1 tablespoon sea salt

1 cup sugar 


1 cup water


1 teaspoon yellow mustard seed 


1 teaspoon coriander seed 


1 teaspoon fennel seed 


1 teaspoon pink peppercorns


1 bay leaf 


2 chiles de árbol

Trim the root ends off the ramps and cut down the leaves, leaving about one-quarter inch of green. Wash the ramps under cool, running water.

If the ramps are bigger than your little finger, blanch them for 30 seconds in boiling water and then shock them in ice water. Drain the ramps well and place them in a sterilized quart-sized Mason jar. Slimmer ramps can be placed directly into the jar.

Combine the vinegars, salt, sugar and water in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Add the spices and stir to combine.

Pour the hot vinegar mixture into the jar, seal and cool. Store in the fridge for three months.

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