Taking sides

Posted 8/21/12

With the big day looming, no doubt you’re giving some thought to what will grace your Thanksgiving table. Who am I kidding? You’re probably going to make the exact same menu as last year (and the …

This item is available in full to subscribers.

Please log in to continue

Log in

Taking sides

Posted

With the big day looming, no doubt you’re giving some thought to what will grace your Thanksgiving table. Who am I kidding? You’re probably going to make the exact same menu as last year (and the year before), because culinary traditions tend to become deeply entrenched. There’s comfort in your grandmother’s stuffing recipe, your mother’s cranberry sauce, your uncle’s famous apple pie. But how will you make your mark on the holiday? New traditions have to start somewhere. So maybe this is the year you get a little creative.

While there may be no messing with the Big Five (turkey, stuffing, cranberry sauce, potatoes and pumpkin pie), the side dishes are where you can make your move. Although Thanksgiving is ostensibly all about the turkey, the sides are usually the most exciting part—unless yours belong to the Dark Ages of marshmallow fluff and canned fried onions. I celebrate the holiday with my husband’s family and have managed to make a couple of inroads in the last 10 years. My Parmesan-stuffed, bacon-wrapped dates, a twist on the classic devils on horseback, are now hotly anticipated. And a simple preparation of cubed garnet yams tossed with maple syrup, pancetta and chile flakes has also earned a place at the table. It’s blitzed in the oven until yielding and caramelized, during the half hour or so that the turkey is resting. You can even make it ahead of time and reheat it at the last minute, and this versatility is definitely ingratiating.

If every man I knew didn’t disdain beets, I might consider trying to sneak in a savory crumble made with tender chunks of the root vegetable and their nutritious greens enrobed in a cheesy sauce and baked under a crunchy crust of Parmesan, oats and hazelnuts. It’s the perfect amount of richness without compounding the turkey’s soporific qualities, and would probably be just as good made with cauliflower or broccoli.

For cool refreshment (I can’t be the only one who craves this), something crisp and green that is not “a boring old salad” fits the bill. This is your opportunity to trick people into loving Brussels sprouts. Try an easy slaw made by shaving them as thinly as possible—a sharp knife works, so does a mandolin—then tossing them with shallots, toasted walnuts and Parmesan in a mustard vinaigrette. I’ve actually witnessed young children scarfing this down. Do I have your attention yet?

I’m hoping that no matter what you cook, your friends and family will thank you. But if you step outside the comfort zone, your taste buds will be eternally grateful.

Sweet & Spicy Yams

Serves 8-10

4 lbs garnet yams

6 ounces pancetta (in one chunk, not thin slices)

4 tablespoons olive oil

3 tablespoons maple syrup

3 teaspoons red chili flakes

3 teaspoons fine sea salt

Flaky sea salt, for finishing

Preheat oven to 400ºF. 


Peel yams and cut into 1/2” cubes. Cut pancetta to the same size. Combine yams and pancetta in a large bowl and toss well with remaining ingredients. 


Spread this out on a couple of cookie sheets or large roasting pans; it’s important that it be in a single layer and not crowded, as this promotes faster cooking and better caramelization. 


Roast in the oven for 30-40 minutes, until nicely browned and sizzling, rotating pans and stirring two to three times. Serve hot or at room temperature, finished with a light sprinkling of flaky sea salt.

Shaved Brussels Sprout Salad

Serves 6

1/2 cup minced shallots

3 tablespoons lemon juice

1 teaspoon raw honey

1 ½ teaspoons Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 ½ pounds Brussels sprouts, about 3 cups (larger ones are easier to handle)

1/2 cup finely grated Parmesan

3/4 cup toasted chopped walnuts

Soak the shallots in a small bowl of cold water for 15 to 20 minutes while you prepare the rest of the ingredients. 


In a small bowl, whisk together the lemon juice, honey, mustard and a pinch each of salt and pepper. Whisk in the olive oil until the dressing is emulsified. Set aside. 


Trim the Brussels sprouts, cutting off any bruised outer leaves and slicing off the hard root end. Using a very sharp knife or a mandolin, shave the sprouts one at a time. When you’re done, use your fingers to gently separate the leaves. Drain the onions.

Pile the sprouts into a serving bowl, add the onions and toss gently with the dressing. Fold in the cheese and walnuts, then season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.

Comments

No comments on this item Please log in to comment by clicking here