Herbal essence

Posted 8/21/12

On the heels of my recent trip to Lebanon and Greece, and my return to a garden lush from summer rains, I have fallen in love (again) with herbs. Throughout the Mediterranean, green herbs play an …

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Herbal essence

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On the heels of my recent trip to Lebanon and Greece, and my return to a garden lush from summer rains, I have fallen in love (again) with herbs. Throughout the Mediterranean, green herbs play an important role in many dishes, but especially in the assortment of mezze (shared plates) that serve to awaken the appetite. Among the bounty of traditional salads I ate was an Armenian specialty of lightly dressed sprigs of freshly picked oregano. It had a surprisingly subtle flavor—more like the wild marjoram that grows on my land in Forestburgh—that was perfectly disrupted by small bursts of sweet tomato. Tabbouleh, which I had previously thought of as a grain salad, I came to understand as an ode to the verdant wonders of parsley. Breakfast in Beirut was also a revelation. At our hotel’s charming rooftop garden, under a fragrant bower of gardenia and honeysuckle, we rolled soft sheets of paper-thin flatbread around endless combinations of fresh white cheese, juicy tomatoes, crisp slices of cucumber and handfuls of tender spearmint. More of those aromatic leaves were steeped in hot water for cups of pale green tea swirled with thyme-infused honey. Light and healthy, with nourishing and cleansing properties, herbs are a great way to start the day.

The idea that herbs can lead rather than follow is an intriguing one, especially at this time of year, when even the least talented gardener might suddenly find herself with armloads of chives, lovage and basil—not to mention shiso, tarragon, cilantro and lemon balm. Once you stop thinking of herbs as a garnish and start featuring their clear flavors in dishes both savory and sweet, a new world of possibilities opens up. One of my favorite light summer suppers is a bowl of perfectly cooked rice—brown jasmine or basmati, usually—that I toss with salted butter and big handfuls of chopped herbs, sometimes as many as a dozen varieties. The heat from the rice melts the butter and releases the oils from the herbs, so your mouth is flooded with flavor.

Pesto is another option, of course, and basil is not your only recourse. A friend told me about a pesto he ate in Milan, made with lovage, walnuts and pecorino. I tried it with pasta and a jolt of lemon zest and it’s now a summer staple. I also like to finely chop green herbs—heavy on the parsley, but also tarragon, mint, basil, chervil, etc.—and combine them with minced capers and shallots for another Italian classic. Salsa verde comes together with red wine vinegar and plenty of good olive oil. Anchovy and chile are optional; without them you have something more like Argentina’s chimichurri sauce. Either version is excellent with grilled fish and meats or with a wide array of vegetables, from potatoes to radishes.

On the sweet side, try steeping herbs in your ice cream base, straining them out before it goes into the machine. I especially love rose geranium in my blackberry sorbet, and I make a panna cotta infused with lemon balm. Simple syrup flavored with herbs are an easy way to transform sparkling water and make for great cocktails. Lovage syrup with gin and fresh lemon juice is an ideal summer quaff. The Greeks collect all manner of wild herbs from their rocky hillsides and make “mountain tea;” you can do the same with a mix of chamomile, lavender, hyssop, mint, sage and lemon verbena. It’s wonderfully soothing and refreshing, whether you drink it hot or cold.

I’ve presented herbs to you from a culinary point of view because they beguile with their deliciousness. But it’s worth mentioning that every one belongs to a venerable tradition of healing. Consume them often and in large quantities and reap their many benefits.

Salsa Verde

Makes about 2 cups

2 cups parsley, leaves only, packed

3 tablespoons tarragon leaves

2 tablespoons fresh mint leaves

2 tablespoons fresh chervil

2-3 tablespoons chopped sweet onion or shallots

1 tablespoon capers, drained (rinsed if salted)

4 large anchovy filets

1/2-1 teaspoon red chile flakes

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1/4-1/2 cup olive oil

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice, or to taste

Mince first eight ingredients (through red chile flakes), either by hand or in a food processor. If using the latter, pulse repeatedly to retain control and don’t over-process. Ingredients should retain a bit more individual character than in a pesto. Transfer to a bowl. 


In a separate bowl, whisk together vinegar, mustard and olive oil. Add to herb mixture and stir to combine thoroughly; add as much olive oil as needed to achieve a loose texture. Taste and add salt and pepper. Stir in lemon juice to brighten flavor and help retain color.

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