Is there anything better than a big bowl of ice cream on a hot day? Inevitably, it conjures up memories of childhood, when all those exciting flavor possibilities were almost overwhelming. The dreamy swirls, the little puddles that formed around the edges and the tantalizing drips were all part of the grandest treat ever. Whether you grew up eating rich, eggy frozen custard or icy, fruity sherbet, you’ll remember the excruciating choice between cup or cone and the delicious dilemma of hot fudge versus sprinkles. Don’t wait for summer to make your first batch. As soon as cows begin grazing on fresh spring grasses, their milk turns sweet and thick and ideal for ice cream. Those of you willing and able might consider using raw milk from a trusted local dairy. Churned into cold comfort, there is nothing finer.

Ice cream took on new dimensions when I learned to make my own, using a simple, very affordable ($65) home machine that turns out absolutely respectable results, including frozen yogurt, margaritas and daiquiris. The main thing to remember is to store the canister in your freezer, so it’s ready to go whenever you are. The beauty of making ice cream is the total control you can exert over ingredients and flavors. But a basic understanding of how to get the right texture is essential, and this is where a trusted recipe comes in. My homemade ice cream went from good to spectacular when I discovered the work of Jeni Britton Bauer, the proprietor of a popular Ohio creamery. Her book, “Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams at Home” (Artisan, 2011), contains recipes for a hundred mouthwatering flavors and, most importantly, for a generic base that can be customized to your liking. A major point of difference is that it calls for no eggs and yet boasts a dense, satiny texture. Jeni has found a way to minimize the formation of ice crystals, which is often what decreases the quality of homemade ice cream. Her technique requires boiling a combination of milk and cream to remove as much water as possible, and adding a little cornstarch to absorb any water that might be lingering in the mixture. Small amounts of corn syrup (or tapioca syrup) and cream cheese guarantee that wonderfully smooth texture.

For an irresistible expression of the season, try my recipe for rhubarb ice cream, made with Jeni’s eggless base. It perfectly preserves the distinctive vegetal taste of rhubarb, which Alice Waters describes as “the smell of the earth in the spring.” A bit of honey, and the juice and zest of an orange help temper rhubarb’s astringent bite. Because rhubarb and strawberries are such happy companions, top this ice cream with a simple sauce of finely chopped strawberries macerated with a little sugar and vanilla. It tastes of the garden and of summer days to come.

Rhubarb Ice Cream

Makes about 1 quart

2 cups milk

4 teaspoons cornstarch

3 tablespoons cream cheese, softened

1/8 teaspoon fine sea salt

1 pound rhubarb, cut into ½” pieces

2 tablespoons wildflower honey

¼ cup fresh orange juice

1 tablespoon orange zest

1 1⁄4 cups heavy cream

2⁄3 cup sugar

2 tablespoons corn syrup or tapioca syrup

In a small bowl, whisk 2 tablespoons of the milk with the cornstarch; set slurry aside. Whisk together cream cheese and salt in a medium bowl until smooth. Fill a large bowl with ice and water and set aside.

Combine rhubarb, honey and orange juice in a large saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 15 minutes, until quite soft. Puree in a blender or Vitamix until completely smooth, then stir in orange zest. Set aside.

In a 4-quart saucepan, combine the remaining milk, the cream, sugar and corn syrup, and bring to a rolling boil over medium-high heat. Cook for 4 minutes, remove from heat and gradually whisk in the cornstarch slurry.

Return to a boil and cook, stirring, until thickened, about 2 minutes. Gradually whisk the hot milk mixture into the cream cheese until smooth. Stir in the rhubarb purée until well combined. Pour the mixture into a 1-gallon re-sealable plastic bag and submerge the sealed bag in the ice bath. Let stand, adding more ice as necessary, until cold, about 30 minutes.

Pour mixture into the frozen canister of your ice cream maker and process until thick and creamy. Pack the ice cream into a storage container, press a sheet of parchment paper against the surface and seal with an airtight lid. Freeze in the coldest part of your freezer until firm, at least 4 hours.