A few months ago, yet another large and important study was released with irrefutable evidence that 30% of heart attacks, strokes and deaths from heart disease could be prevented if high-risk individuals switched to a Mediterranean diet rich in nuts, beans, fish, fruits, vegetables and olive oil. But where’s the beef? Let me reassure you that eating for health doesn’t mean you have to eliminate pleasure. But it’s a good idea to start thinking of meat as a kind of delicious flavoring rather than the focal point of the plate. That’s how it is in many parts of the world, like Asia, India and South America, where beans—or “pulses,” as they are also known—reign supreme. When meat is a supporting player rather than the star, food becomes not only much more economical but easier on the environment and therefore more sustainable.

Often referred to as “the poor man’s meat,” beans have provided us with delicious flavor and nourished us for centuries. They are rich in protein, fiber, minerals and B vitamins and contain varying amounts of omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids. Though beans offer a lot of important nutrition, they must be eaten with small amounts of animal protein or with whole grains—like wheat, rice or corn—to provide the complete spectrum of necessary amino acids. These combinations appear in a great diversity of traditional dishes from every cuisine, ranging from hummus with pita to pasta fagioli to rice and beans.

Like whole grains, nuts and seeds, beans contain phytic acid in their hulls, a natural preservative that prevents them from sprouting in your pantry. A somewhat toxic substance, it also inhibits enzyme production and interferes with the absorption of important nutrients, which is why it’s important to always soak beans before cooking them. It’s really not such a big deal to put a cup of beans in a bowl of water the night before you want to cook them. Add a little lemon juice, whey or cider vinegar to initiate the breakdown of phytic acid, though the soaking will take care of most of it. It neutralizes the acid and makes the beans easier to digest and their nutrients more readily available. Be sure to discard the soaking water and rinse the beans to wash away any residue. In addition to being more nutritious, dried beans are also a great deal more flavorful than canned, though the latter can come in quite handy in a pinch; just try to use those that are stored in BPA-free cans.

Begin exploring the world of beans and you encounter a plethora of options, including many beautiful heirloom varieties with nuanced tastes, some creamy and bland, others quite earthy. There are nutty chickpeas, mild navy beans, pungent black-eyed peas, sweet red adzuki beans and delicate green mung beans. Among my favorite beans is the gargantuan gigante. They have a rich meaty flavor that makes them wonderful in soup or cooked until tender and drizzled with spicy olive oil. My favorite way to eat them is cloaked in a tangy oil-enriched tomato sauce, equally good served hot or at room temperature. Limas or any large white beans make an acceptable substitute.

Beans do a great job of absorbing flavors and they pair beautifully with other vegetables. Try infusing them with the smoky complexity of bacon or ham, or mimic that with pimentón (smoked paprika) or even a dark miso. Beans often taste better the next day, once the flavors have had a chance to meld. That’s the great thing about cooking up a big batch—you can eat them several days running. Start off with soup; next, drain them and make a salad by adding chopped vegetables and a simple vinaigrette; then, mash up whatever’s left to make a dip that’s delicious with pita chips and crudités. Don’t skimp on the spices: beans love garlic, citrus zest, chile peppers, fresh herbs and vinegary hot sauces.

One trick I picked up is not to add anything acidic to the cooking water until your beans are nice and soft. So no vinegar, wine, citrus juice or tomatoes or they will not become beautifully tender no matter how long you cook them. If you want to add a little extra zip to a bowl of cooked beans, try stirring in a few spoonfuls of a loose pistou, the French version of a pesto. You can process any combination of fresh green herbs—parsley, basil, tarragon, mint—with garlic and plenty of good olive oil (cheese is optional) to make a piquant sauce.

Because beans are such an important staple around the world, you can find a wealth of inspiration in very diverse cuisines. Try India’s kichari, a soft porridge of split yellow mung beans and white basmati rice infused with ghee (clarified butter) and mild spices. It’s my go-to breakfast on a cold winter’s day. Whip up a batch of Mexican borrachos, pinto beans cooked with bacon and beer; mash any leftovers, spread them on crisp tortillas and garnish with a colorful array of sliced radishes, diced avocado and cilantro. Take inspiration from Spain, where cooked chickpeas are fried in olive oil (or roasted in a hot oven) and tossed with salt and smoky pimentón for an addictively crunchy snack. Let yourself discover the magic of beans.

Lima Bean & Ham Stew with Parsley-Rosemary Pistou

Serves 4

2 cups dried lima beans

1 smoked ham hock

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 shallots, diced

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 bay leaf

10 black peppercorns

4 juniper berries

1 quart vegetable stock, or water

Sea salt to taste

Soak lima beans overnight covered amply in cold water; add a tablespoon of lemon juice or apple cider vinegar if you like. Alternatively, cover beans with boiling water and soak for about 4 hours.

Drain and discard soaking water from beans, then rinse beans well. In a Dutch oven or large soup pot, heat olive oil and sauté shallots and garlic until lightly browned. Add bay leaves, peppercorns and juniper berries, stirring to coat. 


Pour in stock or water and bring briefly to a boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook, partially covered, until beans are soft, about 1 hour. (Time may vary depending on your beans.) 


For a soupier consistency, add more stock or water as it is absorbed. Pluck out the hock, slip the meat off the bone, roughly chop and return to the pot, discarding bone and fat. Serve beans with a couple of spoonfuls of Parsley-Rosemary Pistou. Season to taste with salt.

Parsley-Rosemary Pistou

Makes about 3/4 cup

1 cup flat leaf parsely, densely packed

1 tablespoon fresh rosemary, de-stemmed

1-2 small cloves garlic, peeled and smashed

1/2 teaspoon sea salt

1/2 teaspoon lemon zest

2/3 cup olive oil

1 tablespoon finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, optional

Pulse the parsley, rosemary, garlic, salt, zest and oil in a blender or food processor. Leave it a little chunky. Stir in the cheese. It should have the consistency of a loose pesto; add more oil as needed. Will keep in the fridge for several days.

Crispy Chickpeas


makes 2 cups


2 cups cooked chickpeas, drained and thoroughly dried

3 Tablespoons olive oil

1-2 teaspoons sea salt


1-2 teaspoons smoked paprika(spicy or sweet)

Preheat the oven to 425ºF.

Pour olive oil into a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, add chickpeas and toss for about a minute. Transfer skillet to the oven and bake for about 25 minutes, stirring several times to ensure even cooking.

Meanwhile, combine salt and paprika in a bowl. When the chickpeas are a deep golden brown, remove from the oven and toss with the seasoning to fully coat. Allow to cool slightly before serving.